36 Hours in Vergennes

The first thing people usually ask me about Vergennes is how to pronounce it. Answer: vur-JENS. The town I once left behind that I now proudly call home.

 At first glance Vergennes looks like one of Vermont’s quintessential small towns. But it’s not a town. It's the smallest and oldest city in Vermont. And it has gone through a revival not many can match. I noticed a significant shift when I moved back in the early 2000’s. A new spark had taken hold. I found an eclectic mix of people from all walks of life who were fashioning a delectable small-city concoction.

 When a pandemic shut down the world in 2020, businesses across the country struggled. But this little city surprised me with people starting businesses, expanding on flavors and experiences, and keeping Vergennes dancing. Her evolving steps continue swinging to the right beat and she’s dreaming up even more.  

 Nestled between Burlington and Middlebury (a convenient stop off Route 7), it’s a perfect place that promises new flavors every time you visit. Here’s my advice:

FRIDAY
2PM: Settle Inn 
Stay local! There are great lodgings options right in or near town. To experience one of the city’s most grand Federal homes on Main Street, make reservations at the historic Strong House Inn offers themed rooms and modern amenities. Looking for something a little more connected to nature? Check out the Basin Harbor along Lake Champlain. With its fairy-tale small cabins dotted along woodsy paths, their offerings are many with golfing, boating, swimming and much more.

3PM: Tour the Main Strip
First stop on historic Main Street is Linda’s Apparel & Gifts and Men’s Corner on the corner of Main and Green Streets. Two shops in one, the shop carries a variety of clothing for men, women, and children with names like Carhart, Darn Tough socks, and their fun and elegant shoe-line, L’artiste.

To lavish the olfactory senses, go around the corner and drop down into Daily Chocolate. The shop’s exotic and earthy décor fits the bill for its decadent offerings. Submit yourself to heady aromas and try one of everything. Dawn Wagner, who purchased the shop during the pandemic, adheres to four rules with her chocolate confections: creativity, ethical practices, sustainability, and quality ingredients. No corn syrup here! All chocolates are made on site with local and/or organic ingredients.

If your sweet tooth isn’t gratified, lu.lu ice cream will conquer that craving. Winner of best ice cream in Vermont, made in small batches, owner Laura Mack uses the best local ingredients (a prevalent theme in the Green Mountain state) as she blends unique flavors.

Right next door is Ten Stones Emporium. A fun, diverse mix of Nepalese clothing, plush Peruvian Alpaca sweaters and gorgeous, color drunk sari products. "It has a bohemian vibe,” claims the owner, Charlene Goodell. Two of the main focuses here are fair trade and handmade.

Mosey on down the street to Blue Lily Clothing Company, offering up comfy, contemporary clothing alongside stunning gowns fit for a queen about to rule the world. You’ll also discover fine gifts and adorable baby duds that will melt your heart.

Then pop into Malabar right after. Crisp Scandinavian colors set the scene for eclectic pieces for lifestyle and home. My favorites include dishes covered with Klaus Haapaniemi’s fantastical creatures, Kankan bags, and FIFI slippers. “It’s a swanky store,” owner Julie Jones says. I completely agree as I survey her realm.

Looking to add an extra element of relaxation to your stay? Dive down to Vermont Pure Essential to get your chill on. The best local CBD products, locally made in Shoreham Vermont. They offer CBD flowers, tinctures, honey, and bath bombs, which are ah-mazing!

The Joy Shop is the perfect destination next. Vintage garb for both adults and kids, jewelry from Vermont metalsmith, Raegan Hough, cool glass art from Carrie Root, and other local artists greet you as you enter.

For more vintage cravings, visit Sweet Charity. Chock full of artistic and antique pre-loved goods. This shop is the brainchild of “Women of Wisdom” a giving group of local women. Profits from the shop are donated to local charitable organizations and women and children in need. Last time I was in I discovered a velveteen sofa fitting the taste of Marie Antoinette and fun vintage dishes from my grandmother’s day! 

6PM: Park Yourself at the Squeeze
Upon arrival, you’ll be led to the seating upstairs. Between the gothic bar, exposed brick walls, and the sculpted rhinoceros art installation, you’ll find a nook to nestle into in this surprisingly intimate uptown space. The fare is tasty with great burgers and delectable cocktails. As I sip their special drink of the day, a ginger mojito, I savor the spicy beverage while talking with Dickie Austin, Park Squeeze general manager (and fellow Vergennes-ian.) on his take of the Little City. “To some, the concept of city is tall buildings and terrible things,” he says. We both agree that our city exudes that “cradled ease” one experiences in a small town.

SATURDAY

9AM: Experience the Movement
Start your day by stretching it out and opening those chakras at Vergennes Movement, the local yoga studio. Depending on which direction your downward dog takes you, tall second-story windows provide a view of grand maple trees or the rolling Green Mountains. Next, learn a bit about Vergennes history by visiting the memorials in City Park. Down the street, visit the Falls Park overlook, on the north side of the Otter Creek Bridge and spanning the waterfall that powered Vergennes’ early industries. 

11AM Coffee & Exploration
Now is the time to visit the Vergennes Laundry for a late breakfast/early lunch. A French-style bakery with exceptional pastries made in a large wood-burning oven.  Owner Nadia Dole, another fearless entrepreneur who bought the business during the pandemic, is keeping this gorgeous beast alive and well with sourdough-based breads from flour they mill themselves. Croissants, cardamom, and morning buns are a traditional offering, as well as teas from India, Spanish olives and exquisite local products.

Across the street, slip into Vergennes' must-see library. William Bixby opened the Bixby Memorial Free Library to the public in 1912. Its grandeur includes a marble interior and grand staircase crowned by a large stained-glass dome topping the rotunda.

2:30PM Have a Sip
Another local libation making its claim is Shacksbury Cider. “This area is home to some of the country’s finest orchards,” says co-owner Colin Davis. I concur. The defining name, Vermonter, is one of my favorite ciders. The taste reminiscent of standing in the Green Mountain forest.

4:30PM Art, Food & Music 
On Main Street, step into Northern Daughters, a contemporary art gallery that maintains grass root traditions with local artists and style. I’d imagine that if art in Manhattan and Vermont had a love child, it would be showcased in this gallery.

Afterwards, be assured of a delicious meal and (depending on the day) a live musical note at Bar Antidote and Hired Hand Co. With farm-to-table offerings and great Vermont beers on tap and elaborate cocktails, their awesome edible “cures” feature locally sourced ingredients. Ian Huizenga, mastermind behind the business, sources his goods locally and brews beers that have you wanting more than just the flight. 

SUNDAY

9 AM How to Say Au Revoir
Shake the languor of sleep with hot coffee and great food at 3 Squares Café. Sunday is the best time to get their creative eggs benedict with anything from smoked salmon to pork belly. Owner Matt Birong can be found working behind the line or hanging out with the customers. “It’s a community spot,” Matt says. He’s been one of the driving forces behind the evolution of Vergennes. When discussing this article, I mention I grew up here. Matt responds matter-of-factly, “You can speak to the evolution then.” Yes - I can.

Vergennes is filled with bold pioneers. Not just a city that people drive through to get somewhere else. Instead, people come here to set down their roots. When writing this article, I realized that when I came back, I had every intention to leave again; this was just a pit-stop before my next adventure. Instead, I bought a home and am now part of the thriving city I experience every day. And the dance goes on. “It’s going to be a weird little city in the best way possible – encouraging in a non-exclusive way,” Dickie Austin said hopefully.

Whether you’re here to taste and experience - or to settle down, Vergennes will be dancing. Grab a partner and join in. 

About the Author, Christina Caniyo 
Raised and now living in Vermont, Christina is also the author of the YA fantasy novels, Death and the Underhouse and Doors of the Dreaming God. She is a certified Herbalist from Sage Mountain Herbal school and the creator of Crocodile Crane. Her stories are inspired by the small New England city of Vergennes, where old homes, gothic churches and cemeteries feed her
imagination.